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by Cass Gilbert
From WhatMountainBike magazine 24.

ISLE OF PURBECK, SOUTH DORSET

ESSENTIAL INFO
Rating: Moderate
Distance: 26km (16 miles)
Duration: 1.5 to 2.5 hours

Best time to go: Good all year round.
Getting there: Corfe Castle is just past the junction of the B3351 and the A351 from Wareham. Or, it's a six-mile ride from Wareham station, served by South West Trains direct to Waterloo. From Poole or Bournemouth, you can start the ride near Studland. Take the B3369 to Sandbanks and hop on the chain ferry (90p one way) and ride up the B3351.
Where to stay: The Old Curatage, East Street (01929 481441) is reasonable, or a B&B. www.virtualswanage.com has a list of local places.
Tourist Information: Tourist office, Wareham in Holy Trinity Church, So Street (01929 552740). Swanage's tourist office is by the beach on Shore Road (01929 442885).
YHA: West Lulworth (01929 440564) and Swanage (01929 422113). Both are closed Mid-Nov to Feb.
What to take: Take an extra layer for when you stop. The usual emergency tools are recommended and a spare inner tube for the stony descents. Take enough food to keep you going for the day. Halfway stop Studland is a good place to replenish fluids and have a snack.
Bike Shops: The nearest to the start/finish is Bike About at 71 High St, Swanage 01929/425050, it also hires bikes. In Poole there's Bikelab, 2 Wimborne Road, Poole (01202 330011).
Maps: Landranger 195. Explorer OL15 deals with the whole Isle of Purbeck and South Dorset.

There's a lot more to Dorset than Thomas Hardy novels and quaint thatched cottages. For a start, it's home to some of England's quirkiest place names - Scratchy Bottom, Puddletown and Durdle Door to name a few. Just a couple of hours from London, it's also riddled with empty bridleways and one of the most geologically stunning coastlines in the South West - a string of bite-like coves that munch their way round the Isle of Purbeck. While the name itself is something of a misnomer - Purbeck is actually a peninsula jutting out to sea - there's definitely an isolated, island feel to the place. Very much a local outdoor paradise, its clear and clean waters pull in the surfers at the first sign of a swell, its raw and exposed chalk cliffs draw free climbers too, happy to plunge into the sea if they miss their footing. Its buckled ridges rising high above the countryside provide ample excursions for MTBers too.
The ride begins at the bottom of the valley in Corfe Castle, with a short but sharp gully climb emerging at the top of the ridge. As the trail levels out, the body hugging singletrack becomes a broad, grassy trail, rising and falling gently into the distance. It's the first of the stunningly big views that characterise the day ahead, so don't forget to look back and make the most of the gap-toothed ruins of this 11th century medieval castle, rising out of the valley floor. The mile markers point you along Nine Barrow Down towards Studland, until the trail reverts into a sweeping, rocky descent, twisting and turning as it dives through the valley. Watch out for the gate round the first bend. Don't worry though, there's plenty of time to pick up some serious speed for the second installment of this blistering descent.
In the Purbecks, what goes down must go up. After a short spurt on Tarmac, a bridleway climbs steeply onto the ridge again. But the effort is more than worth it. A narrow finger of land points out towards the sea, with fantastic coastal views on either side. On a clear day the Isle of White glimmers in the distance, the town of Swanage sprawls out to your right, with vast Poole Harbour and Godlingston Heath to your left. It's the perfect excuse for a quick break: look out for the bench tucked into the hedgerow. Shaded by one of the many trees sculpted by the wind, it's the ideal spot to soak up the scene.
Back on the saddle, the track tilts downwards once more. Don't be unduly concerned if it seems intent on plummeting straight ahead into the sea... At the last moment, a steep bank to the left saves you from dropping off what seems like the end of the world. As you sweep further round, Old Harry's Rocks come into view; a stunning collection of crumbling stacks and stumps, topped with grassy tufts of hair. The pathway continues to shadow the cliff edge before descending into Studland.
Heading through the village, pick up the B3124 towards the chain ferry. For a quick dip, take a quick detour down to Knoll beach, a ribbon of soft sand backed by miniature dunes. On the road, a track to the left crosses the nature reserve of Godlingston Heath to Greenland farm. The conditions here are stony but flat, and it's easy to pick up some speed as you delve into the forest. Wide trails, singletrack and soft sand make up the terrain. It's a peaceful scene with the marshy shallows of Poole, the second biggest natural harbour in the world, to your right. Past the BP nodding donkey, the track briefly morphs into a silky stretch of Tarmac, before it's time to head into the forest for a fast trail that's soft and sandy in places.
Emerging eventually back on a country lane, Corfe Castle looms over the hedgerows. The last stretch is back on the B1324, guiding you back to the car park. Corfe is a tourist magnet in the summer and at weekends, so there are plenty of places to grab a snack before scrabbling about the ruins. Treat yourself to a cream tea for the ultimate Dorset experience! Packed with stunning coastal views and real variety of terrain, the ride is non-technical, though the steep climbs make it Moderate in rating.

The Start The car park on the left just before entering Corfe Castle on the A351 from Wareham. Map reference Explorer OL15 959824
1. 0.00m (0.00 mile) Turn left out of the car. Take the second left (the Castle is to your right) passing under the steam railway bridge. Look out for the gate with a bridleway on your left
2. 0.69km (0.43 miles) Climb the steep, stony gully to the top of the ridge, where the surface levels out and becomes a grassy trail. Take the bridleway to the immediate right of the telegraph mast and ride along the top of the ridge towards Ulwell, climbing slightly onto Ailwood Down. Follow the signs to Swanage and Studland
3. 4.53km (2.81 miles) At the wooden five bar gate, continue along the ridge, then take the sign to Ulwell. Soon after a metal gate the trail veers to the right past the set of radio masts. The descent is fast and stony - watch out for another gate around the corner. Drop all the way down the valley to a Tarmac road.
4. 6.67km (4.14 miles) Turn left onto the road for a gentle climb. Look out for the bridleway on the right a short distance up, past the Purbeck Way footpath, also to the right.
5. 7.35km (4.57 miles) Turn right onto the bridleway up a stony tough climb back onto the ridge to the obelisk. Through a gate, go straight ahead and follow the wooden sign to Old Harry. Look for the bench in the hedgerow on the left with great views to Studland Bay.
6. 9.38km (5.83 miles) Follow the track along the ridge, through two gates and past the stone marker to Old Harry. The track begins its steep descent towards the sea. Banking sharply to the left, watch out for the ruts that can be slippery in the wet. Follow the coastline on the grassy, rutted track to Old Harry.
7. 11.75km (7.30 miles) Past Old Harry, continue along the bridleway, shadowing the coast and finally emerging back on tarmac at the toilet block. Take a right, past the Scott Arms, followed by a left opposite the Manor House Hotel. Turn right onto the B3351 signposted Bournemouth via Toll Ferry, passing the National Trust's Knoll Beach.
8. 16.09km (10.00 miles) Take a left at Greenlands farm, just before a bus stop, onto a stony track signposted Rempstone Forest. Fork left away from the farm, then follow the signs to Rempstone as the trail twists and turns before reaching Tarmac.
9. 17.87km (11.10 miles) Turn left, then immediately right back onto a track signed Ower. Stay on this track as it veers round to the right, through a gate and behind a house. Through the next gate, head straight ahead across the meadows, along a narrow trail that becomes sandy as it climbs.
10. 19.38km (12.04 miles) Turn left when you emerge at a T-junction with a stony track, followed by an immediate right, signposted Ower Quay. Shortly after, sweep round to the left, ignoring the sign to Ower, passing a BP nodding donkey instead. The track becomes Tarmac. Ride to the next junction, taking a left signposted Wellsites F and M. Head off the road on the first forest track on your right, signed Wytch Farm.
11. 21.32km (13.24 miles) Following the forest trail, veer round to your left (away from the Wytch Farm signpost) onto a track that becomes sandy in places. Shortly after, turn off the track as it curls 90-degree to the left, instead heading straight on along a narrower, grassy trail. Crossing a small wooden bridge hidden by thick undergrowth continue onwards through the forest, on a track that becomes hardpack.
12. 22.83km (14.18 miles) Take a left when the forest track meets a Tarmac T-junction, following a winding country lane until it emerges onto the junction of the B3351.
13. 24.47km (15.20 miles) Turn right onto the B3351, which brings you out at Corfe Castle. At the junction, turn right and right again, back into the car park - alternatively, head left into the village for a well-earned bite to eat.

Total distance 26km (16 miles)

This route was provided by WhatMountainBike? magazine.
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