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This ride can be summed up in a couple of words: fantastic but fatiguing. Which sounds like an ideal description of mountain biking to us. It's only fair to warn you that some other 'F' words may be used at certain points if you're not feeling on top form. The challenge and character of this loop comes from the fells and dales you cross en route, but these mean exposed tops and plenty of soggy bog unless weather conditions are very dry. If there's been any sort of prolonged period of rain or general dampness don't even bother to try the Walden or Whernside sections. Also, while all the climbs can be cleaned from top to bottom by a good rider on a good day (no really, they can), don't underestimate the technical nature of the riding - up or down - or the level of fitness you need to complete it. Now we've got the parental advisory bit out of the way, we can say this is one of our favourite rides, with climbs you can be proud of and descents you'll be laughing about for months afterwards. It's worth waiting for the right weather to make the best of it. It starts in the beautiful valley of Wharfedale, and while you can saddle up in Starbotton at the very base of the first climb we normally ride in from Kettlewell or Buckden. These small but busy villages have the advantage of places to park and feed, or stay overnight, as well as starting as a couple of warm up road miles. The first climb is the longest, and steep with it, but as you winch your way up Starbotton Cam Road make sure you're paying attention, as you'll be heading down it a whole lot faster at the end of the ride. Watch out for the polished limestone step up sections on the corners too, where you'll need every bit of balance and belligerence not to end up walking. The contouring section near the top gives legs some respite but watch yourself in the deep peat hags as they'll swallow a bike and rider whole. Soon enough you'll be gritting your teeth and cranking it out of the saddle as the final grassy wall sorts the climbing freaks from the rest. The reward is potentially the fantastic views back into Wharfedale or over into Wensleydale although more than ten foot visibility on Buckden summit is never guaranteed. It's exactly this evil weather that claimed a lost Wellington bomber in 1942 with only the tail gunner surviving from the all Polish crew to erect a monument on the crash site, 100 yards off trail to the North. After roller coaster contouring singletrack you'll start the grassy plummet into Walden, but watch the countless deep ruts left by enduro bikes and the bottomless peat hags, as either mean a big off if they get you. Cross the new hardcore shooting track that's been carved into the hill and then hang on and howl like a fool as the moor goes into freefall and brakes go into meltdown. The rocky ford at the foot is great for comedy clouds of steam from disc brakes, but slippery slabs demand respect. Regroup and refuel on the road down Deepdale (where there's a fantastic bunkhouse if you fancy staying awhile) before turning back on yourself to find the foot of the next significant climb. Again loose rocks do no favours for grip so try and stick to the grassy edges and save some energy to punch round the rocky switchbacks just after the second gate. After that it's a steadier climb with only a final grassy kick to reveal the second half of the ride stretching away up Coverdale. Once you're safely past the bogs, it's a fast and loose charge down into Carlton, but watch the water ruts and be ready to double wheel drift the scabbley corners. Carlton
gives the option of a pub stop or a cop out road route
back up the valley to Kettlewell, but the full English
option crosses the valley to West Scrafton. Don't be tempted
by the bridleway that leads south into Nidderdale direct
from the village though as that suddenly disappears into
the heather, leaving you stranded after a promising start.
Instead double back on the narrow road just inside the
village then straight on up through the gated pampas,
complete with miniature ponies for company. Then it's
onto more steady gravelly climbing up over the saddle
between Little Whernside and Dead Man's Hill (which might
be apt by this stage of the ride). The drop down into
the deserted village of Lodge is short and sweet, with
a couple of cute rubbley corners for drifting purposes.
Getting there: From the south and east: head through Leeds on A65 for Skipton. Loop north of Skipton on the A59 ring road and take the B6265 towards Grassington. Just before Grassington turn left onto B6160 for Kettlewell and then Buckden. From the south and west: head up the M6 then take junction 29 to Colne along the M65. Take the A56 and A59 to Skipton. Details from there as above. From the north east: come down the A1(M) to Scotch Corner, following the A6108 through Richmond to Leyburn. Turn towards Hawes on the A684 then turn left onto the B6160 after 6 miles. Carry on through Newbiggin and Cray to Buckden. And if you're coming from the north west: drive down the M6 to J37, then follow A684 to Hawes turning south through Gayle and on to Buckden. Food and where to stay: As this is the heart of the Dales you're spoilt for choice but book early to get a place. The Buck Inn in Buckden is perfect for ale heads, there's a Youth Hostel in Kettlewell and plenty of farmhouse B&Bs and campsites in and around Buckden, Kettlewell and Starbotton. Tourist
Info: Grassington, call 01756 752774 for info. Bike shops: The best local shop is Moonglu in Ripon (call 01765 601166) and there's also JD Cycles in Ilkley (call 01943 816101) if you need spares and bits. Map:
OS Explorer OL30 Yorkshire Dales (northern and central
areas) or Landrangers 98 and 99. |
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