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Harry
Henniker MELROSE
TO HOLY ISLAND 
This final section of the coast to coast route follows the
Tweed Cycleway initially, but after Kelso it turns away
from the Tweed towards the Cheviot Hills and Kirk Yetholm.
It is possible to stay with the Tweed as far as Coldstream,
but if you are going to Holy Island you will definitely
have to say goodbye to the river there, as at Coldstream
the Tweed turns north to meet the sea at Berwick.
Our route skirts the Cheviot Hills, entering England just
after Kirk Yetholm. From there we pass by the battlefield
at Flodden, then it's on through Branxton, Crookham, and
Lowick. Shortly after there is a panoramic view of the Northumberland
coast, with Holy Island laid out below. All of the route
is on quiet roads.
This route is in two sections:
A) Melrose to Kirk Yetholm
B) Kirk Yetholm to Holy Island
Melrose to Kirk Yetholm (25 miles)
Leave Melrose on the B6361 passing between the abbey and
the river. The road leads round to the village of Newstead,
bear left here, then left again at a health centre. A mile
later by an old railway viaduct, turn left through bollards,
and cross the River Tweed on the old road bridge, between
the viaduct and the modern bridge carrying the A68.
Turn right after the bridge, and right again, following
signs for Scott's View (shown at the top of this page).
This was the favourite view of Sir Walter Scott, taking
in a panorama of the Eildon Hills and the River Tweed. Fortunately
modern developments have not changed it too much.
After Scott's View continue on past a sign for the Wallace
Statue. This is an oversize statue of Scottish patriot William
Wallace, portrayed by Mel Gibson in the film Braveheart.
The statue stands in trees and is nothing special.
Turn left at the bottom of a hill, signed B6356 Kelso 10;
then left again, signed B6404 Kelso 9. After four miles
on the B6404, turn right at a crossroads on to the B6397,
signed Kelso. After this turn right on to the A6089 and
follow this for two miles into Kelso. In Kelso follow the
signs for the town centre and the Tweed Cycleway. In the
cobbled town square, turn left opposite the Cross Keys Hotel
and cross the River Tweed.
Kelso is worth lingering in (tourist info 01573-223464).
The town square is particularly elegant, and the bridge
over the River Tweed is modelled on the Waterloo Bridge
on the River Thames, being designed by the same engineer,
John Rennie. Floors Castle is just to the north, originally
designed by William Adam; it was used as the setting for
Tarzan's ancestral home in the film Greystoke.
After crossing the Tweed you can either carry straight on,
using the B6352 for Kirk Yetholm, or turn left on to the
B6350 to continue on the official Tweed Cycleway. The B6350
is flat, and has fine views over the River Tweed. The B6352
is hilly, and has splendid views of the Cheviot Hills. Of
course if you are planning on staying at Kirk Yetholm Youth
Hostel, you don't have any choice about the matter.
Route via River Tweed: continue along the B6350 by
the river for nine miles. A mile after Wark, turn right
at a sign: East Learmouth 1, West Learmouth 1. Bear left
to pass under the left viaduct, then turn right at a war
memorial, signed Yetholm. Take the first left, signed Branxton
2; the two options merge again at this point (see the point
marked *below).
Route via Kirk Yetholm: the B6352 begins with a climb,
and it continues to be hilly. In Town Yetholm follow the
signs for Kirk Yetholm, which is on the other side of the
river. Kirk Yetholm and Town Yetholm were once heavily involved
in smuggling whisky, they were also the home of the Faas,
the gypsy royal family. Nowadays Kirk Yetholm is the northern
end of the long distance walk, the Pennine Way. Walkers
and cyclists can stay at the youth hostel (01573-420631)
or the Border Hotel; there is also a camp site.
Kirk Yetholm to Holy Island (28
miles)
Leave Kirk Yetholm on the minor road going north, passing
down the side of the Border Hotel. After just over a mile
you enter England. Two miles after this, turn left, signed
Pawston/Mindrum. Pass through Pawston to the B6352 and turn
left (no sign). At the next crossroads turn right, signed
Cornhill 4. There is a long straight descent to East Learmouth;
turn right then right again at the sign Branxton 2.
There is a gentle climb then you turn left, signed Branxton
1.5. After a mile you pass a sign for Flodden Battlefield.
Here in 1513, the flower of Scotland's manhood, led by King
James IV, went to die at the battle of Flodden. An indicator
board gives more detail. If you need cheering up after this
sad tale you should visit the cement menagerie in Branxton,
as this is certain to raise a smile. Continue on and bear
right in Branxton, signed Crookham 1.5. The menagerie is
opposite the red phone box.
After the menagerie, continue on in the same direction to
the A697. Turn right, but after a very little way take the
second left, signed Crookham. The Bluebell Inn near this
junction can provide bar meals, etc. Turn left at the next
junction, signed Ford. Turn right opposite an ornamental
gateway (Ford). On the way through Ford you pass Ford Castle
which is just like an outsize replica of a child's toy castle.
Leave Ford climbing steadily on the B6353, the Friendly
Hound Inn is at the top of the hill. Just after this you
get your first glimpse of the sea. Turn left on to the B6525,
then right off it, signed Lowick. There is a village shop
in Lowick, plus the Black Bull Inn, which does lunch and
evening meals.
Keep straight on through Lowick, but after a mile turn left
at crossroads, signed Haggerston 3. After half a mile turn
right, signed Beal. As you bike along this road, the whole
of the east coast, from Berwick on Tweed to Bamburgh becomes
visible. The outline of Holy Island is instantly recognisable,
and you will be able to see whether the tidal causeway is
open or not. To find out about this in advance phone Coldstream
Tourist Office: 0870 6080404.
There is a rapid descent to the A1, take care crossing.
Holy Island is straight over. The Plough Hotel at the junction
can provide food, though there are lots of eating places
on the island itself. There is often an ice cream van parked
just before the causeway. If you have not previously checked
the times of high tide you should do this now at the causeway
notice board, to make sure you can get back.
Holy Island was the site of a Christian priory established
by St Aidan in 653 until it was eventually abandoned owing
to Viking raids. The priory was developed by St Cuthbert
and St Wilfred, and during the latter's time the Lindisfarne
Gospel was produced. This is now in the British Museum,
with a replica in the priory church.
The priory is now in ruins, but the abbey church is still
intact. Both can be visited, as can Lindisfarne Castle.
The priory also produced mead, and this activity at least
is still ongoing, even if not carried out by monks. There
is a handful of pleasant pubs and tea rooms. Half of the
island is now a bird sanctuary.
Should you need to cycle to Berwick to catch a train, this
can be done on the network of minor roads to the east of
the A1. Cycling on the A1 is not advised.
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