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The Edinburgh Bicycle website team.

Harry Henniker

HARRIS AND LEWIS

Background:

Harris and Lewis are two islands joined by a narrow isthmus. Confusingly the name Harris applies to the southern island, and the southern part of the northern island. Harris turns into Lewis at roughly 58.03 degrees north. North of this the terrain tends to more open moorland, while the south is mountainous. Harris is more scenic, the east coast is rocky with hundreds of small lochans. The west coast is flatter, with vast sandy beaches. Harris is also the source of Harris Tweed, although nowadays more of this is produced in Lewis.

Useful phone numbers:
Caledonian MacBrayne ferries: 01851-702361

Tarbert tourist office:
01859-502011

Stornoway tourist office: 01851-703088

Harris (Leverburgh - Tarbert via west coast: 22 miles)

Possibly the best place to arrive in Harris is at Leverburgh. The village itself, called after soap magnate Viscount Leverhulme, is nothing special, but you will have come from North Uist via lovely Berneray - ahead of you on the west is a vast stretch of shell sand: Scarista Beach.

The road on the west coast of South Harris is fairly flat, running along through the flowers of the machair, although there is a steady climb when the road eventually turns east. You can stop almost anywhere for a picnic. The east coast is different, rocky and barren but with delightful little coves and hundreds of small lochans full of water lillies.

On the way up the east coast is St Clement's Church at Rodel. Dating from the 16th century it has some outstanding medieval stone carvings. The road twists and turns past small hamlets perched on the Lewisian gneiss that all these islands are mainly made from - the oldest rock in Europe.

The road is rarely flat but eventually you will arrive at Ardvey on Loch Stockinish.Turn right here for Stockinish Youth Hostel (01859-530373) or keep straight on for Tarbert. Going via the hostel also takes you to Tarbert via the lovely Golden Road. The hostel is basic, no food store, it does have blankets!

Tarbert, the terminal for the Skye ferry, has B&Bs of variable quality, several hotels, and a tourist information office (01859-502011).

An interesting place to stay is at Rhenigadale on Loch Seaforth. This was once the most remote community in Britain, accessible only by sea or over a hill track. There is a croft-type hostel in the village (no phone, no advance booking). The overland route is now a road which makes it easy to get there.

There is plenty to explore around North Harris. Go along the side of West Loch Tarbert past Amhuinnsuidhe Castle to Hushinish. The castle is for let if you can afford it. Several rough tracks, passable on a mountain bike, lead north into the remote mountains of North Harris (restrictions in stalking season).

Lewis (Tarbert to Stornoway 37 miles)

Going north from Tarbert to Stornoway is a one day ride, passing fiord-like Loch Seaforth. At first it's hilly, with a mountainscape more like Norway than Scotland. Once you have passed Loch Seaforth the cycling gets easier.

Lewis is a vast moor covered in lochs and peat. Many loch names end in 'vat' revealing their norse origin. The west coast is interesting with many things to see, notably the broch at Carloway and the standing stones at Callanish.

Brochs are impregnable towers, usually near the sea. There are brochs all over Scotland but none elsewhere; built from 100BC to AD100, their origin is a mystery. One theory is the reason for their construction lay in the Roman occupation of southern Britain. Areas on the periphery were raided by sea to obtain slaves. The Picts had at least one ingenious mind that was able to devise a defence - see a broch for yourself.

At Arnol is the Black House Museum. This display of how things used to be was lived in up to 1964. North again is Eoropie, the most northerly village in the Hebrides. The 12th century church of St Moluag is here, key in the shop. A mile north again the road ends at the Butt of Lewis lighthouse.

Stornoway, the largest town in the Outer Hebrides, is the centre of Gaelic culture. Caledonian MacBrayne ferries (01851-702361) sail from here to Ullapool (2.5 hours). It has the usual hotels, B&Bs and tourist office (01851-703088). Hostels at Kershader (01851-880236) and Garenin (no phone).