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Erl B. WilkieST MONANCE TO PITTENWEEM

From 25 Cycle Routes - The Kingdom of Fife, Mercat Press

Distance: 20km (12.5 miles) circular route

Maps: OS Landranger - sheet 59. Kingdom of Fife Cycle Ways East Neuk map.

Start and Finish: The harbour, St Monance.

Terrain: Generally flat with some short stretches of undulating road. Easy cycling for all the family.

Refreshments: Available from many places in St Monance and Pittenweem.

The route:

St Monance, like Pittenween, Anstruther and Crail, is an ancient village full of interesting architecture and heritage. For many hundreds of years, as well as fishing, the locals built boats, mined coal and manufactured salt from local salt pans. There are two principal places of interest in St Monance. The first is the old church, which stands dramatically on the shore to the west of the village. It was dedicated to St Monance and founded by King David II in 1362, and transferred into the trust of the Dominican monks of St Andrews by James III, one hundred years later. After the Reformation it became derelict and by the end of the eighteenth century had been reduced to a ruin, although there were rumours that the church was a convenient place to hide smuggled items from time to time. Fortunately it was restored in the early nineteenth century by the architect William Burns and converted for use as a parish church, which it remains to this day. The second place of interest, lying to the east of the village, is the eighteenth-century windmill which has been recently refurbished.

The route begins at St Monance harbour. Proceed up Station Road, a reminder of the railway which once served this village, to the junction of the A917 and take this road in the direction of Elie for about a kilometre. This road, although sometimes busy, should not present much of a problem for most cyclists over this short distance. Take the first turning on the right which is the minor road signposted to Kilconquhar. Just before entering the village the road passes to the north of the splendid Kilconquhar Loch. Because the loch is fairly small it often freezes over in winter, and therefore it has become a popular place to hold a bonspiel (tournament) for those skilled in the game of curling. However, in the past it was said to have been used for a more sinister purpose - that of drowning witches. This beautiful village with its eighteenth century houses is worth stopping in for a look around.

On entering the village, turn right on to the B941 and head north, past the Kilconquhar estate with its castle which was built by Sir John Bellenden. The estate was soon acquired by the Earls of Lindsay, who later became the Earls of Crawford. The estate is now a premier holiday resort. Soon the junction with the B942 is reached. Carry straight on over this, continuing on the B941 signposted for St Andrews and Cupar. After a kilometre turn to the right and follow the minor road to Arncroach, turning to the right just before the village is reached. Carry on through Arncroach to the junction with the B9171 and turn left. Keep on this road for 1km to where a minor road, signposted to Pittenweem, is to be found on the right, and follow this road straight into the village. Here there is a good view over the Firth of Forth with the Isle of May in the foreground.

Pittenweem is now the largest fishing port in the area, and if you are lucky enough to arrive when the fish sales are in progress, although I warn you that this will be very early in the morning, you will see a still-vibrant industry hard at work. This is not only an interesting spectacle, but it may give you the opportunity to buy some really fresh fish.

Pittenweem is as old as the other villages within the East Neuk and has links with St Fillan, another of the many seventh-century missionary saints to visit this part of the country. He is said to have worshipped in a cave which is situated in what is now Cove Wynd. This cave, with its 'saint well' and altar, was restored in 1935 and is still open to visitors today.

History has not always been kind or just to the people of Pittenweem, for in 1704 the infamous Pittenweem Witch Trials took place. The charges of witchcraft which led to these trials, and the shameful events that occurred as a result, were founded on the word of one man, Patrick Morton, the son of a local blacksmith. It happened because of an argument he had with Mrs Beatrix Laing, a woman of the village, about the making of some nails. In the weeks after this argument Morton became sick and concluded that Mrs Laing had put a spell on him. He publicly accused her and her neighbours, Thomas Brown and Janet Corphat, of witchcraft against him. Morton claimed that the Devil had appeared to him and urged him to deny the name of his Savior. On the insistence of the local minister, Mrs Laing was thrown into the town jail and under torture testified against her neighbours, but later retracted this testimony. The burgh authorities accepted her story and she was released. However, she was considered to be accursed by the locals and so she was banished from the community and lived out her life in At Andrews.

The other accused were not so lucky. Thomas Brown was starved to death in Pittenweem prison and Janet Corphat became the victim of a mob who, incited by the minister, broke into the prison and seized her. They beat her and then crushed her to death by piling rocks on top of her.

On leaving the village one can either travel the two kilometres back to St Monance along the A917 or take the first road on the right after 200m or so, which is the B942. Proceed along this to the junction at Abercromby and turn left on to the minor road leading back to St Monance and the finish of the route.